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Unlock This CourseA shore profile is like taking a cross-section slice through a beach - it shows us the shape and slope of the land from the sea up to the back of the beach. By measuring these profiles, marine scientists can understand how waves, tides and weather change our coastlines over time. This practical investigation is essential for understanding coastal ecosystems and how they respond to natural processes and human activities.
Key Definitions:
Every beach has three main zones: the backshore (above high tide), foreshore (between high and low tide) and nearshore (below low tide). Each zone has different sediment types, slopes and ecological features that we can measure and compare.
Shore profile measurement requires specific equipment to ensure accurate and reliable data collection. The basic method involves measuring the height and distance at regular intervals across the beach profile.
Professional shore profile measurement uses ranging poles, clinometers and measuring tapes. Ranging poles are marked wooden or metal poles that help measure height differences. A clinometer measures angles and gradients, whilst measuring tapes record horizontal distances.
Usually 2-3 metres tall with clear markings every 10cm. Used to measure vertical height differences between points on the beach.
Measures angles of slope. Point it along the beach surface to read the gradient in degrees or as a percentage.
Records horizontal distances between measurement points. Usually 30-50 metres long for beach work.
The measurement process follows a systematic approach to ensure consistent and accurate data collection across different beach locations and conditions.
Choose a representative section of beach that shows typical features. Establish your datum point at a fixed location like a sea wall or prominent rock. This becomes your zero reference point for all measurements.
Always check tide times before starting fieldwork. Work with a partner and inform others of your location. Wear appropriate footwear and be aware of changing weather conditions. Never turn your back on the sea and watch for rogue waves.
Start from your datum point and work towards the sea. Take measurements every 5-10 metres, depending on how much the beach slope changes. At each point, record the horizontal distance from your datum point, the height above or below your datum point and the gradient of the slope.
Accurate data recording is crucial for meaningful analysis. Create a clear data table with columns for distance, height, gradient and observations about sediment type or beach features.
Plot your measurements on graph paper or use computer software to create a profile diagram. Look for patterns in slope changes, identify different beach zones and compare profiles from different locations or times.
Shore profiles reveal important information about coastal processes. Steep profiles often indicate high-energy wave environments, whilst gentle slopes suggest lower energy conditions. Changes in sediment size along the profile show how wave energy sorts materials.
Chesil Beach in Dorset shows how shore profiles change along a coastline. The western end has large pebbles and a steep profile due to high wave energy, whilst the eastern end has smaller sediments and a gentler slope in the sheltered Portland Harbour area.
Many factors influence the shape and characteristics of shore profiles, from natural processes to human interventions.
Wave energy is the primary factor shaping beach profiles. High-energy waves create steeper profiles by removing sediment, whilst low-energy waves build up gentler slopes. Tidal range affects the width of the foreshore zone and seasonal storms can dramatically alter profile shapes.
Constructive waves build up beaches with gentle profiles. Destructive waves erode beaches creating steeper profiles.
Large tidal ranges create wide foreshore zones. Small ranges result in narrow intertidal areas.
Rivers and cliff erosion provide sediment. Reduced supply leads to beach erosion and profile changes.
Human activities significantly affect coastal environments and shore profiles. Understanding these impacts is crucial for sustainable coastal management.
Sea walls, groynes and rock armour all modify natural coastal processes. These structures can protect property but often alter sediment transport patterns, affecting beach profiles both locally and further along the coast.
The Thames Estuary flood barriers protect London from storm surges but have changed tidal patterns and sediment deposition. Regular shore profile monitoring helps scientists understand these changes and plan future coastal management strategies.
Shore profiles create different habitats that support diverse marine ecosystems. The slope, sediment type and exposure time during tides all influence which organisms can survive in different beach zones.
Steep shingle beaches support different species compared to gentle sandy shores. Rocky platforms provide hard surfaces for seaweed attachment, whilst sandy areas allow burrowing organisms to thrive.
Changes in shore profiles can indicate ecosystem stress. Rapid erosion might destroy nesting sites for birds or feeding areas for wading species. Regular monitoring helps identify problems before they become critical.
Shore profile data has many real-world applications beyond academic study. Coastal engineers use this information to design effective sea defences, whilst environmental agencies monitor changes to protect important habitats.
Rising sea levels and changing storm patterns affect shore profiles. Long-term monitoring programmes track these changes to help predict future coastal evolution and plan adaptation strategies.
The Holderness coast in Yorkshire loses approximately 2 metres per year due to erosion. Regular shore profile measurements help scientists understand erosion rates and test the effectiveness of coastal management strategies.