🌊 Formation Process
Bars form when waves lose energy and drop their sediment load. This typically happens in shallow water where wave energy decreases, or where opposing currents meet and cancel each other out.
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Unlock This CourseBars are some of the most fascinating coastal landforms you'll encounter. They're essentially ridges of sand, shingle, or other sediment that form in coastal waters. These features can dramatically change the shape of coastlines and create unique environments for both wildlife and human activities.
Bar development is a perfect example of how coastal processes work together to create landforms. The combination of waves, currents and sediment supply creates these impressive features that can stretch for kilometres along our coasts.
Key Definitions:
Bars form when waves lose energy and drop their sediment load. This typically happens in shallow water where wave energy decreases, or where opposing currents meet and cancel each other out.
Not all bars are the same! Understanding the different types helps us appreciate how varied coastal environments can be and how different processes create different landforms.
These bars form parallel to the coast but are separated from the shore by a stretch of water called a lagoon. They're created when waves break in shallow water, depositing sediment in ridges.
Usually submerged at high tide, visible at low tide and can extend for several kilometres along the coast.
Waves break in shallow water, losing energy and depositing sediment in parallel ridges to the shore.
The Outer Banks of North Carolina, USA, are a famous example of offshore barrier islands.
These impressive features form when sediment is transported across the mouth of a bay, eventually creating a complete barrier. They're excellent examples of how longshore drift can dramatically alter coastal geography.
Bay bars develop when longshore drift carries sediment from one side of a bay to the other. Over time, this sediment builds up until it completely blocks the bay mouth, creating a lagoon behind the bar.
Slapton Sands is a 3-kilometre shingle bar in South Devon that separates the sea from Slapton Ley, a freshwater lake. This bar formed through longshore drift moving sediment from south to north. The bar is constantly changing shape due to storm events and is managed to protect the village of Torcross behind it. During World War II, this area was used for D-Day landing practice, showing how bars can be strategically important.
Longshore drift is the engine that powers bar development. Understanding this process is crucial for grasping how bars form and change over time.
When waves approach the shore at an angle (which they usually do), they push sediment up the beach diagonally. However, when the wave retreats, gravity pulls the sediment straight back down the beach. This creates a zigzag movement of sediment along the coast.
The forward movement of water up the beach carries sediment diagonally up the shore, following the angle of the incoming wave.
The return flow of water moves straight down the beach due to gravity, carrying sediment perpendicular to the shoreline.
Several factors work together to determine whether bars will form and what type they'll be. Understanding these factors helps explain why bars are found in some locations but not others.
The strength and direction of waves are crucial for bar formation. Constructive waves (low energy, long wavelength) are better at building bars because they deposit more sediment than they erode.
Lower energy waves are more effective at depositing sediment and building bars.
Consistent wave direction helps maintain longshore drift and bar development.
Areas with smaller tidal ranges often have better conditions for bar formation.
Bars need a constant supply of sediment to form and maintain themselves. This sediment can come from rivers, cliff erosion, or offshore sources.
The size and type of sediment also matter. Sand creates different bar types compared to shingle or pebbles. Finer sediment can be transported further, while coarser material tends to form steeper, more stable bars.
Chesil Beach is an 18-kilometre shingle bar that connects the Isle of Portland to the mainland. This tombolo (a bar connecting an island to the mainland) demonstrates how bars can create permanent land connections. The beach is famous for its graded sediment - pebbles are pea-sized at the western end and fist-sized at Portland. This grading occurred due to wave energy differences and longshore drift patterns. The bar protects the Fleet Lagoon behind it, creating an important wildlife habitat.
Bars don't exist in isolation from human activities. People have been using, modifying and sometimes struggling with bars for centuries.
Bars provide natural coastal defence, protecting the land behind them from wave attack. They also create unique habitats like lagoons and salt marshes, which are important for wildlife.
Bars act as natural sea walls, absorbing wave energy and protecting coastal communities from flooding and erosion.
The lagoons and marshes behind bars provide crucial breeding and feeding areas for many species of birds and marine life.
Bars can also cause problems. They may block harbours, change drainage patterns, or be vulnerable to storm damage. Managing these features requires understanding their natural processes.
Common management strategies include beach nourishment (adding sediment), building groynes to control longshore drift and creating managed retreat zones where bars can migrate naturally.
Climate change is affecting bar development through sea level rise, changing storm patterns and altered sediment supply. Rising sea levels may cause bars to migrate landward or disappear entirely.
Understanding these changes is crucial for coastal management. Some bars may need active management to survive, while others might be allowed to change naturally as part of coastal adaptation strategies.
Spurn Head is a 5.5-kilometre curved spit extending into the Humber Estuary. This feature demonstrates how bars can be dynamic and temporary. The spit has been breached by storms several times in recorded history, most recently in 2013. Each time, it rebuilds naturally through longshore drift processes. The spit protects important port facilities and wildlife habitats, but its future is uncertain due to sea level rise and changing storm patterns.